What's in the bottle?

We don't treat paint like nuclear weapons

Here's a PDF of ALL our colorants, and what they mean:
https://www.epscca.com/galleries/pdfs/colorant/NovoColor-II-TDS.pdf

KX – White

Titanium white (PW6). High hiding, neutral to cool in temperature.

AX – Bright Yellow

High-chroma organic yellow (PY74). Strong tinting, bright and clean.

T – Medium Yellow

Mid-value yellow blend. Reliable mixer with steadier coverage than AX.

D – Phthalo Green

Phthalocyanine Green (PG7). Intense, cool green with huge tinting strength.


E – Phthalo Blue

Phthalocyanine Blue (PB15:2). Deep, powerful blue ideal for rich shadows and mixes.

F – Red Oxide

Iron Oxide Red (PR101). Earthy, opaque, stable red-brown foundation pigment.

S – B. Red (Bright Red)

High-chroma organic red blend. Clean, saturated, and intense.

CX – Yellow Oxide

Yellow Iron Oxide (PY42). Warm, earthy yellow with strong coverage.

M – Magenta

Organic magenta (PR122 family). Strong chroma, essential for purples and vivid reds.

L – Raw Umber

Earth brown (PBr7). Cool, natural shadow tone that mixes easily.

B – Lamp Black

Carbon Black (PBk7). Very neutral, very strong tinting strength.

I – Brown Oxide

Brown Iron Oxide. Warm, high-coverage brown ideal for leather, dirt, and wood.

Bear Cavalry Color System

Introducing the Bear Cavalry Color System

(Based on the Munsell Color System, built for miniature wargamers who actually paint)

Color theory doesn’t have to feel like art school. At Bear Cavalry Paints, we built our Color System on the same backbone used by artists and pigment scientists, the Munsell Color System, and then tuned it for how we actually paint miniatures.

Munsell breaks color down into three simple ideas: Hue (what color it is), Value (how light or dark it is), and Chroma (how intense or muted it is). We took those ideas out of the textbook and put them on your bench where they belong.

Every color in our range is swatched over both white and black, shown with a single brush stroke. No airbrushing. No filters. Just what the paint actually looks like in your hand. It’s the most honest way to show you what you’re working with.

We’re in the process of developing a full Bear Cavalry Color System that will organize every hue by its value and purpose in the hobby world, not in a lab. Until then, every paint we make fits right into that framework, so you’ll always know how it behaves when you thin it, mix it, or drop it over a different basecoat.

Our goal is simple: give you artist-grade color that performs in the real world under hobby lamps, late nights, and coffee-fueled paint jams.

This isn’t theory for theory’s sake.

It’s color strategy for hobby warfare.

Bear Cavalry Paints. Paint like an artist. Fight like a general.

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Red - R

High-chroma reds that hit hard and stay smooth, from brown-red shadows to that Red Baron punch. Tuned for strong glazes and blends rather than chalky, flat coverage.

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Yellow Red (Orange)

One brutally bright, high-chroma orange that sings over zenithal and warm bases. Transparent by design, so you build glow and heat instead of fighting streaks.

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Yellow

Sun-bright yellows that jump cleanly into ice-yellow style highlights. Ideal for non-metallic gold and high-value accents where you want intensity without a gritty finish.

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Yellow Green

Right between our yellows and greens for great highlights on all your Ninja Turtles.

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Green

A full Munsell-style sweep of greens, from yellow-pukey forest tones through cool turquoise shadows. Built for fast wet blends and smooth transitions across the whole value range.

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Blue Green

As the name suggests.... a blue green mix! Great for night time lighting schemes.

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Blue

From Payne’s-gray darks to electric brights, the blue family stays punchy and cooperative. Slow enough drying for easy wet blending, strong enough in chroma to carry glazes and edge highlights.

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Blue Purple

Rich, satin-leaning purples that behave more like artist colors. Great for deep shadows and high-chroma accents when you want intensity and smooth layering, not dead, muddy mixes.

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Purple

Ok, Magenta is technically a purple in our color system. Yes, it's weird.

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Neutrals

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Browns

One of the strongest parts of the range. Warm, cold, and gray-infused browns with serious opacity for leather, wood, dirt, and fur, all mapped cleanly along the value scale.

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Skin tones

Flesh colors tuned more for glazing and subtle build-up than single-coat opacity. They shine when you lean into layered transitions and let the underpainting do part of the work.

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